Through a year and a summer I have kept our bees in the back corner of our property,
their hive looking out onto the thick wildflower fields of the Bog of Allen.
Through all the seasons I have gone through the ritual, every month or so, of
putting on the white suit, lighting a fire in the hand-held smoker, sedating
them, and opening up the hive. I – and occasionally my daughter -- have fed
them sugar-water, checked for mites and other signs of disease, and cleared the
summer weeds that were crowding around their home.
We watched
them slowly line their wooden box with wax sculptures of geometric precision, and fill these shapes, bit by bit, with a
treasure that they guarded like dragons guarding gold. Then, last weekend,
finally, we took some of their gooey hoard for our use, payment for room and
board.
People have
worked out relationships with all kinds of animals – cows and other grazers for
milk and meat, chickens and other birds for eggs and meat – but have few such
relations with the far more numerous and important invertebrates of the world.
Snails might have been among the first domesticated – if that’s the word – animals,
as pots with many snail shells have been found at archaeological sites, and the
Chinese guarded their relationship with the silkworm for three thousand years.
We have nothing else in our civilisation, however, like our relationship with
bees – indeed, there are few living things like bees in the world. A century
ago the Afrikaans naturalist Eugene Marais proposed that a termite mound should
be recognised as a single animal, a termitiary, and we could do say much the
same of any apiary.
Our
relationship with bees goes back so far that it has affected the evolution of third-party
species. The honeyguide bird of Africa leads humans to hives so they can get
the honey, which they share with the bird – something that must have been
worked out over millions of years, before we were truly human. Many ancient
societies kept bees, apparently developing the relationship separately in
places like Egypt, China and Central America, and no self-respecting monastery
would be without bees for mead and candle-wax.
For most of
that time, though, they were kept in simple containers like skeps – essentially
baskets – which had to be broken and the hive destroyed any time the honey was
harvested. In 1852, though, a Pennsylvania vicar invented the beehive that is
still used today – a wooden box with sliding frames inside that the bees can use
to make honeycombs, without sealing the frames together. Each frame can be
pulled out and checked, the bees inspected for disease and progress, and the
honey extracted, all with only a brief disruption to the hive.
Not only do they give us honey and wax, but they are very helpful in pollinating our plants as well, the reproductive solution for living things that must procreate but cannot move. Flowers grow for their benefit, not us, and bloom in more colours than we can see – only their superior eyes can see all their shades and patterns. Any good gardener would benefit not only from the presence of bees, but from planting crops specifically designed to attract them.
Not only do they give us honey and wax, but they are very helpful in pollinating our plants as well, the reproductive solution for living things that must procreate but cannot move. Flowers grow for their benefit, not us, and bloom in more colours than we can see – only their superior eyes can see all their shades and patterns. Any good gardener would benefit not only from the presence of bees, but from planting crops specifically designed to attract them.
If you want
to plant for bees and other pollinators, you need to plant foods that bloom in
early spring and late autumn, the off-season months when bees struggle to find
enough food. Snowdrops, crocuses and daffodils give bees their first taste of
nectar for the year as honey stores run low. Ling heather, the plant used to
make thick heather honey, does the opposite, blooming after everything else has
gone, although its honey is too thick to extract the usual way.
One of the
champion bee flowers, in our experience, is borrage – our bees go nuts for it.
We find that verbena draws legions of bees and butterflies--- my wife and
mother-in-law bought some from a garden store after seeing one covered with
them. Almost all herbs, in fact, make great bee fodder – thyme, rosemary,
oregano, marjoram, sage and mint. Our local beekeeping society also recommends poppies,
cornflowers, forget-me-nots, zinnias, wallflowers, bellflowers, dahlias,
hellebores and roses.
I could
probably have harvested honey from them last fall, but I had only gotten the
bees a few months earlier, and I wanted to give them time to settle into their
home and accumulate some honey their first year without interference. It turned
out to be a good decision; to my surprise, when I checked on them a few weeks
ago, I found that they had not completely filled the “super,” the removable
upper box where the bees keep most of their honey stores. Some of the
beekeepers I talked to suggested that they were a small colony when I got them,
and it took them time to build up their stores.
You might
think that honey is honey, but in fact, no: beekeepers try to avoid getting
honey from certain flowers, like rapeseed, while others are particularly
prized. Ivy honey, they said, was difficult to get out, and heather honey can’t
be extracted in the usual way – it’s so thick it requires a press.
You could
see as much when we brought the “super” in and the honeycomb frames were all
slightly different colours; the bees had filled them like typists filing
papers, month by month, and each was filled with the honey of the flowers that
were in bloom at the time they were filling it.
Before
harvesting the honey, I had gone to a meeting of the local beekeepers’ society to
learn how to use an extractor, and they had generously lent it to me for the
weekend. The extractor is basically a bucket with a wire frame inside, into
which you can place the wooden frames of the beehive, heavy with their wax
honeycombs. You then take a heated knife and slowly run it over the wax surface
of the honeycomb, removing the “caps” that keep the honey from dribbling out
inside the hive, and then set the frames inside the extractor.
When the
extractor is full of frames, you crank the handle and centrifugal force flings
the honey at the sides of the bucket. You’d think it would be a sticky business
wiping all the honey off, but in fact honey is usually quite runny and neatly
collects at the bottom, where you can simply open a valve to drain it into
jars.
We got
several jars of honey out of the business – more than a year’s supply, and
enough left over to make mead, or honey alcohol. We also collected the beeswax,
which not only makes the best candles, but that we will use to make skin cream.
I had
assumed I would put the hive’s upper story when I was done, for the bees to
re-fill over the coming year. In fact, the beekeepers in my local association
said they leave it off during the winter – the bees have some honey stores in
the lower decks anyway -- and feed the bees sugar-water to keep them going. If
you let them go over the winter, they said, the bees will create honey from ivy
flowers and other things they find difficult to extract.
They are
experts at this, and I’m just a beginner, but I will note that not all local
beekeepers do the same; some have embraced ivy honey for purported health
properties – like the tea-tree-derived “Manuka” honey – and encourage the bees
to stockpile it in order to extract it in spring. I also thought that the hive
has been through quite a trauma, and that keeping the super on – and allowing
them to fill it with ivy honey over the winter – might be less stressful for
them.
Any opinions
from beekeepers out there?