As pleased as I am to see so many people
here turning back to allotments and backyard gardens, I don’t want to see
people rely too heavily on the same potatoes and cabbages. Relying too much on
only a few varieties of a few plants, though, makes for a very fragile kind of
self-reliance. Eat a surfeit of one food and your health declines; meet the
wrong caterpillar or fungus, a summer too hot or a winter too long, and much of
your food is gone. The Irish did that once with potatoes, with disastrous results.
Most of us, though, have little idea how many edible plants are all around us,
and how many could fill our salad bowls or soups. Even if we restrict ourselves
to the minority of plants that have become domesticated crops, we typically
recognize only a few varieties of each – the ones bred recently for fossil-fuel
transport, not for taste, health or your climate.
Take the colour, for example – most of us have never seen green oranges, purple
carrots, striped beets or blue potatoes. Or look at breed names -- most of us
have eaten Johnagold or Green Delicious apples, perhaps without knowing what
they were called, but I have never had Seek-no-Furthers or Belle-de-Boskoops,
and you probably haven’t either.
Even many ordinary vegetables have become widely unrecognized. When I was in
charge of a magazine in America, we made an arrangement with a local CSA to get
a weekly box of whatever was in season. I waited until everyone else had their
share and took the rest home – which meant I took most of it home every week,
because my colleagues had no idea what to make of the vegetables or what to do
with them. Some of these people were environmental activists or vegans, but
they stared quizzically at the kohlrabi, fennel, mange tout, swedes, daikons,
parsley root, beetroot or sunchokes as though they were specimens from an alien
planet.
Still, I didn’t grow up knowing many of these crops either, and had to learn
them over time. When we moved here, for example, my mother-in-law introduced me
to celeriac, a celery relative bred not for its stalks -- which are edible but
foul-tasting, I can assure you – but for its bulbous root. Ours can grow as
large as a human head, and can be left in the ground until needed or
transferred to boxes of sand in the shed. My mother-in-law usually cooked them
like potatoes, but I find them great raw, finely grated like parmesan and mixed
in a spicy lemon dressing.
As another example, I grow scorzonera, a yellow-flowered dandelion relative
that seemed to fall out of favour after the Victorian era. Its black roots
taste great peeled and either boiled, steamed or stir-fried. Its cousin salsify
has blue flowers and white roots, but can be treated similarly. I also grew
chicory, not to harvest at the time, but to transplant to earth boxes in the
shed in winter and force its blanched leaves upwards.
Acquaintances of ours experiment with other roots and tubers: yacon and occa
originated in the Andes Mountains alongside the potato, but spuds became the
staple food for millions while the first two continued to be eaten mainly by
Incas. Sometime soon, though, we really must experiment with yacons, which can
be eaten raw and, I’m told, taste like sweet radishes.
Most people think kiwis come from the South Pacific; in reality the name was a
1960s marketing ploy, a Cold War rebranding of the Chinese gooseberry. They too
grow in this damp and windswept country, perhaps not as big as the ones in
supermarkets but just as tasty --- and without using their own weight in fossil
fuels to get here.
We will never approach resilience unless we wade into the vast pool of
little-known and rarely used plants. This time of year, as many of you are
buying seeds for the spring, consider devoting a piece of your land for
experimenting with new crops and new varieties. Not all your experiments will
work, but some might prove easier, healthier, more pest-resistant, tastier, or
more suited to your particular patch of the landscape that what you are
planting now.
Photo: Morning dew on my strawberries.
