Recently I wrote about public transportation -- how
important buses and trains are for a functioning society. Many countries,
especially my native USA, once had flourishing rail, bus and trolley systems,
and they were widely used – look at old movies or television shows and you see
normal people taking the train instead of driving. That’s still the case here
in rural Ireland; many people don’t have cars, or don’t want to commute all the
way to the city, so they take Bus Eireann (Gaelic for Ireland Bus). The
double-decker buses still look incongruous to me hurtling along the windy
country roads, but they are quite stable, and once they get to the motorway
they use special bus lanes to bypass the worst of the traffic.
When I wrote about buses, I noted that our bus drivers
had threatened to strike; shortly after that that article appeared the strike
began, reminding us all how important the buses are. For us it was only the
latest of a long string of problems with our heat, water, garden and many other
things that needed fixing. I spent the last few weeks driving to work, getting
no writing done, chatting to no neighbours and generally losing three hours
every day, wishing for the return of the buses.
For about a decade I’ve worked in Dublin, and taken
the bus to work each morning – about 90 minutes each way, so three hours a day
on the bus. I’m not fond of commuting so far, but I can use to the time to
write – almost anything you read that I wrote, I wrote on the bus. It’s where I
create the home-schooling lessons I give my daughter. It’s where I correspond
with friends and family – often the only place, as for a long time we didn’t
have internet at home. For people with more talented napping skills than
myself, it’s three extra hours of sleep.
For some of my co-workers, it’s their only means of
transportation; one young lady at my office takes the same bus as I do, and
she’s never owned a car and never planned to. When you have a good bus service,
you don’t need one. Buses, moreover, allow me to chat for hours with neighbours
who commute to the city as I do.
Occasionally, of course, something interferes with the
service; a bus runs late, or it knocks against the branches along the
tree-lined lanes, or breaks down. Sometimes they fill up fast and I have to
wait at the bus stop for hours, or take a different bus to a different village
and get a ride home. One stormy night a
few months ago our bus was inching through the long, single-road traffic jam of
Celbridge, going over the old stone bridge across the River Liffey, when the
high winds wobbled a sign so hard that it smashed against our bus window,
shattering the glass. No one was seriously hurt, but the bus had to let all the
passengers off – it was too great a risk to have all the glass around – and we
had to wait an hour or so until the next bus came.
I did not feel any great inconvenience, and I just
relaxed in the pub across the way – a pub that, by the way, has the splendid
name of the Mucky Duck, and claims to be Arthur Guinness’ old pub from the
1700s, where he invented the beer that bears his name. As I sat on one of the
pub stools, I took out a pen and did some quick math on a piece of paper == the
bus drives past dozens of signs and tree branches every trip, and makes several
trips a day, every day of the year, and that several hundred buses roll across
Ireland. Something like this happened two or three times in the ten years I’d
been riding, and on those occasions people tend to vent their frustrations at
the buses and drivers. We don’t, however, pay enough gratitude for all the
times they inch narrowly through Irish roads with no margin of error, avoid
rocking signs and fallen branches, and get us there within five minutes of
their predicted time.
It’s such a different experience than the USA; there,
half of all public space is devoted to cars, the other half for people, and bus
services are often paltry and carry a stigma of poverty.
Over Easter weekend the drivers returned to work and
the services resumed, just in time for people to visit their families. Today,
for the first time in weeks, I waited at the bus stop to return to work, and
saw the old people who waited for the same bus, like a reunion of friends. An
old lady who lives near me – we’ll call her Bridey – saw the bus coming in the
distance and said, “Ah, isn’t that a blessed sight?”
“It’s been a long time coming,” I told her.
“And it’s Liam at the wheel,” she said with delight.
Everyone loves Liam – he fills us in on the gossip from the buses, the local
politics, and all the villages around. He’s a better source of news than the
television.
The bus was still far away, though, and if I couldn’t
make out who was at the wheel, I was quite sure the old lady couldn’t. “How do
you know it’s Liam?” I asked.
“I just know these things,” she said, smiling, and I
let her keep her secrets.
When we boarded, Liam (sure enough) was talking to the
young lady I work with, and the four of us stood and talked as he started up
again.
“Liam, I’ve never been so happy to see you,” I said.
“Sure, you should always be happy to see me!” he
responded in mock offense.
“Always, but never more than now,” I said. “How’ve you
been keeping?”
“Glad to be back to work,” he said, “I’ve spent the last few weeks outside, getting a tan.” Liam has a typical Irish complexion – he’s lighter than the cast of the Twilight movies.
“Ah go on with you – like you’ll ever have a tan in
your life,” Bridey told him.
“But it’s true!” Liam insisted, showing us his
sunburned ears. “My ears are like to fall off!”
“Was it a good Easter?” I asked.
“Sure it was grand, Brian,” Liam said. “I was worried
about you, Bridey, you being in the country without the bus.”
I think I was the only one of the group who even had a
car – when you have a good bus service you don’t need one. The loss of such a
service has been devastating for country people, especially the elderly.
“Ah, my nephew brought me to church on Sundays,”
Bridey said.
“So God was sorted,” Liam said with a smile.
“And I had the garden for food,” she said.
Most people around here would give those same answers,
I said – they took the bus, knew neighbours and family they could rely upon,
and had some self-sufficient skills to get them through small disruptions like
this.
When I hear people talk about preparing for the future
– whether left-leaning environmentalists or right-leaning “preppers” -- they
usually talk about everything collapsing overnight, Hollywood-disaster
style. In real life, we face little
chance of that, in the USA or anywhere else. Instead, people should think about
what happens if they can’t drive for a while, or lose their jobs, or can’t
drink the water that comes out of the tap, or lose their electricity for a
while. Living here has many problems, but it teaches me that a bit of
self-sufficiency, and a healthy relationship with neighbours, goes a long way
toward getting us through when systems – as they inevitably do at some point –fail.
Photo: Bus in Dublin behind horse carriage. This is purely for illustrative purposes; it was actually Bus Eireann that went on strike, not these green buses, but I don't have a photo of a Bus Eireann bus.
2 comments:
Once again, a fabulous post. Here in Illinois I kept up with the bus strike by streaming either the Galway Radio or Clare FM and I wondered how everyone was getting on. In Chicago in the 60's we used the bus to go everywhere, we had no money for a frivolous car, and my father turned it into a real social event. He knew the drivers and the names of their children! You brought back many of those memories, so thanks for that.
Donna,
Thank you! Riding can be a real social event for us too at times, and we know all the drivers and their eccentricities. We've actually shown up at bus union events to support the drivers and ask about the government's privatisation schemes -- which I hope never come to pass.
Good to hear from you again.
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